This is the first time I’ve responded to a “viewer mail” on the blog. Mind you, it’s practically the first time I’ve received any “viewer mail”… (-;
JS (from U.S.A., I’d guess from the email address) writes some nice things about my blog and writing style (thanks!), and expresses confusion about my age/maturity (thanks!). He goes on:
…I would like to know more about you but right now I’m investigating the future purchase of a classical guitar for my nine year old. [My son's teacher] suggested that since we are going to Barcelona it would be a good time to purchase a Spanish classical guitar for him. [...] could you tell me what I might be looking at spending for a 3/4 size guitar that sounds good and plays well? And while I’ve got you on the phone, any recommendations on where to go to hear some classical and flamenco music/dance while in Barcelona?
Hi JS,
Excuse me — you want to know more about me? I am but the messenger (and here I mean in the old-fashioned, pre-MSN sense). The blog-spirits occasionally favor me by planting ideas in my humble soil; I nurture and water those ideas until they grow and thrive. I am nothing. Sometimes I fail the BS’es, for want of proper fertilization (seems unlikely, I know!) or pure laziness on my part, and their ideas wither and die. I am nobody. Soy El Jardinero Zurdo. I inhabit, and also also go by: “Edges.” But, truly, enough about me.
Buying a Guitar
It’s hard to say exactly how much a 3/4 classical guitar would go for — because of course with guitars there is a wide price/quality range, depending if you want an “entry-level” guitar or a fancy one. You can get a “starter” classical guitar kit for usually 60-70 Euros in shops in Barcelona — I imagine this is not what you had in mind, if your son is already playing. You could get something reasonable with a solid top for 100 to 200 Euros, I’m sure (especially in the 3/4 size).
There are two places I would recommend in Barcelona, for classical (or flamenco) guitars:
- Casa Luthier — this is where I bought my Alhambra flamenco guitar… It’s on Carrer Balmes between Aragón and Valencia (map). Really big (tons of guitars and music), great service. They have customers from all over, so they do speak some English (though I dealt with them in Castellano).
- New-Phono — on Carrer Ample between Via Laietana and La Rambla (map). I looked at guitars here, and bought strings once, had very good service too. Don’t know about English, but I imagine they can speak some.
Of course, there are plenty of other places selling guitars; I’ve been to several but these are the two I was most impressed with for service, selection, etc. There are lots of shops on Carrer Tallers, but I was not as impressed with them. If you want a classical guitar you’re probably best going somewhere that really specializes in that, like Casa Luthier. I’m curious about La guitarreria, but haven’t been since it’s a little outside of Barcelona, in Sabadell.
Seeing Music
For classical music, lots of churches have concerts (they’re often handing out flyers for classical guitar at Santa Maria del Mar, though I’ve never been to a show there). Also, if you can, you really should try to see a concert at the Palau de Música Catalana. Or at least take a tour — it’s a World Heritage Site and, well, a beautiful building.
As far as seeing flamenco in Barcelona, there are some (but not that many) options. As you’ll see, I’ve only been to a few of these places.
- Tarantos — this place, in the plaça Reial (plaza Real), is kind of a nightclub/bar that offers nightly flamenco shows. The best part is that they are cheap…used to be five Euros, now I believe it’s six. There are shows (the same one, repeated) at 20h30, 21h30 and 22h30 — you can stay for all shows for the same price, if you really liked it. Showcases young and little-known groups and dancers. I’ve been several times, and it can be okay…or, if you’re lucky, truly great! Not guaranteed to be representative of “typical” flamenco, since sometimes they are young performers experimenting with new ideas (go for it, I say!). I saw a percussion-only show once, which disappointed me at first (as a guitarist keen on seeing guitar), but in the end it really blew me away (the group was “Esencia”).
- Tablao Cordobes — never been; I’m not so keen on tablaos (typically too touristy and expensive). On the other hand, it’s almost 40 years old, and claims to be one of the “most important tablaos in Spain”, or so claim: “the more demanding artistic minorities.” (-; Yes, that’s what it says on their website — gave me a good laugh, though I imagine they mean to say “artistic authorities“???
- Tablao de Carmen — also have never been; another touristy tablao. But I’ve been just outside and listened through the windows. It’s located inside the Pueblo Español, a kind of Spanish “theme park” which recreates various bits of Spain inside one attraction. I just can’t imagine “ponying up” 64 Euros (or more!) for a dinner plus (somewhat tacky, I imagine) 75 minute show. Then again, I’m cheap. And judgmental, sometimes.
- Tirititrán — “relatively” new place, also haven’t been (geez, where have you been, Señor Zurdo?). It is restaurant, also a tablao of sorts, with shows only on certain days of the week.
- Flamenco Barcelona — another newish place, this is not a tablao but a shop with some flamenco items for sale (shoes, music, etc). But also offers classes (dancing, guitar, singing, cajón) and has regular casual shows in the back, at low prices. Especially tends to have music in the Rumba Catalana style…a Catalan variant of the rumba flamenco style. (Check out Barcelona’s Ojos de Brujo if you haven’t yet!) I took a few basic flamenco guitar classes here last year.
- [NEWLY ADDED 19/03/2007] Restaurante Nervión — never heard of this place before, though they claim to have been around since 1980… I just found a pamphlet at the tourist office. No idea if it’s any good; to me looks like another touristy tablao, but maybe I’ll have to try out some of these places. At least not as expensive as some of the others, and in fact if you come after 23h30, apparently it’s only 5 Euros for a beer (or sangría) and the show. Looks like shows are hourly, from 22h through 1h.
Other than regular “venues” like those above, keep your eyes on the concert/event listings (from local papers, web sites, or the tourist offices). There are various flamenco festivals in Barcelona throughout the year. It was at such special events that I’ve seen some of the best flamenco in Barcelona, actually. The most amazing show I saw (dance-wise) was Sara Baras’ show Sabores.
In May there is the Festival de Flamenco Ciutat Vella, and just before it, the one in Nou Barris (not sure if it’s on this year, I didn’t find anything on the web). Most importantly, there is the Festival Flamenco de Barcelona from mid-June through July. Also, starting next week (through June!) is the Festival de Guitarra de Barcelona, which features amazing guitarists in all styles.
I hope some of this helps — thanks for the letter, and have a great time in Barcelona (where I just happen to be en ce moment). Let me know how it goes, and what guitar you end up getting for your son!
Yours truly,
EJZ (Edges)